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"When I Get To My New Home"
Congratulations on Adopting a Retired Racing Greyhound as a
Pet!!!
We
are proud that you have chosen to adopt through our organization.
It is not a decision that either of us have taken without careful
consideration, and we hope that you and your new "companion"
will enjoy a very special relationship for many years to come.
If you have any questions or concerns, please do not hesitate
to call us. We want you and your new pet to be happy!
The
following is a guide to help acquaint you with the breed and
to assist in your dogs' transition from racer to pet.
We strongly encourage you to read this, print it out, and save
it for future reference, as the information which follows is
invaluable.
"Something
About Me"
I
am a trained athlete and now am retired. My breed has
a Hall of Fame in Abilene, Kansas. I'm a descendant of
an ancient breed that goes back to the Celts, and further, back
to the Egyptians. In old England "You (could) tell
a gentleman by his horse and his greyhound." Look
at old paintings of hunting feasts and you'll find my ancestors.
The term "Greyhound" has nothing to do with color
-- it is old English "Gre-hundr" supposedly "Dog
Hunter" or order of rank, which was high. The Egyptians
worshipped me as a God and you will see other of my ancestors
inscribed on tombs of kings. I think you'll agree I come
from noble lineage. Now I look to you to help me adjust
to my retirement!
"When
You Get Home"
When
you get your new dog home, always use common sense. Put
yourself in your dog's place. Approach the situation from
his point of view. Give him time to adjust to his new
found life. THE MORE TIME YOU SPEND
WITH YOUR DOG DURING THE FIRST FEW DAYS, THE EASIER THE TRANSITION
AND THE BETTER THE BOND.
Greyhounds
bond to the people who take care of them. It is best to
adopt when you are able to spend 3 or more consecutive days
with him. This helps him adjust better. It can be
very frightening for the dog to suddenly be left home alone.
Remember, greyhounds are used to having lots of other dogs and
people around them constantly at the track.
When
you take your new dog home, walk him on a leash, and let him
relieve himself completely before entering the house.
If you have another dog at home, let the dogs walk together
to do their business and get to know each other. Allow
your present dog to enter the house first, followed by the greyhound.
This will lay the groundwork for the pecking order to be established.
Your
greyhound will be nervous in this "great big castle."
He may pace a lot and will follow you from room to room.
Place a piece of tape on mirrors, French doors, and glass doors
to prevent him from trying to run through them. Remember,
he has never seen something like this before, and may not realize
that he can get hurt. Seeing his reflection will certainly
perplex him! Give him necessary time to explore his surroundings.
Place a blanket in his crate, and locate it in a quiet corner,
but NOT away from the family.
Don't make him be away from you, and NEVER
put him in the basement, whether it be furnished, or not.
He will eventually settle down. Be patient and reassuring,
speaking in soft and soothing tones. A firm "NO"
is all that will be needed for unacceptable behavior.
Greyhounds are most sensitive, and intelligent dogs, who are
very eager to please. He will learn very quickly with
your understanding and consistency. You may try feeding
him a small amount of food to make him feel welcome, but do
not be concerned if he is not interested at first.
-
FURNITURE~
Your greyhound will undoubtedly like the couch and might
choose it over the crate or floor. If this is not
your choice, tell him "NO"
and show him the proper place to lie down. Never send
a dog mixed messages by allowing him one the couch once,
or a few times, and then forbidding it in the future!!!
Make your decision, and stick with it!
-
STAIRS~
Some greyhounds will need a lesson with the stairs as this
is most likely their first encounter. Assist him from
behind when going up and in front when going down.
Having two people to do this can be very helpful, but either
way, remember to just move one leg at a time, and be PATIENT.
Use a treat and DO NOT pull
his collar. Within a few weeks he will do just fine.
-
GETTING
USED TO THE NEW HOME~ At first it is wise to limit
your new pet to a few rooms (kitchen, living room, your
bedroom at night). So much space at once is overwhelming,
and could get confusing when it comes to housebreaking.
Eventually, he should have access to the entire house.
-
WALKING
YOUR GREYHOUND~ Walk your dog every 2 to 3 hours
during the first week. Watch for all the important
signs that he needs to go out: pacing, whining, barking.
All dogs are different, and will let you know when they
have to "go out" in their own way. Eventually
he will be on his individual schedule of 4 to 5 walks a
day; upon getting up in the morning, a brief trip after
his morning feeding, in the afternoon, after dinner, and
before going to bed. If you have a COMPLETELY
fenced in yard, consider yourself lucky, this will
be much easier for you!!! (Trees, lakes and streams
do not count as fences.) When walking, you MUST leash
your dog. YOU CANNOT PUT HIM
ON A RUN OR STAKE CHAIN... HE COULD SEVERELY INJURE HIMSELF,
OR EVEN GET KILLED!!! WE CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!
Please do no take a chance with this precious life!
"Crating
and House training"
Your
dog should be encouraged to go into his crate for his own safety
whenever you leave the house, or whenever you cannot supervise
him. In the wild, dogs often seek solace in the comfort
of a cave, and they often times do this in a home as well!
Their crate is their cave to them, and it is important for your
greyhound to have a place just for him.
Make
sure he has his all-important, comfy blanket, water, and chew
toys while crated. It is always good company for him if
you leave the radio or TV on if he is crated with no one at
home. Say "Goodbye" to him without fuss and
leave. You should only leave him for short periods of
time within the first few days; 1 hour, then 2 hours etc., until
he has adjusted. Upon return, immediately take him outside
and give him praise for doing his business. Eventually,
over a period of time of proving himself, you can begin leaving
him out of the crate for short periods of time. Do this
until you have built him up to being left out for a regular
work day.
If
you notice a sudden break in house training, check for medical
reasons, a change of routine, or family situation. After
ruling out the above, go back to crate training, and it will
usually be corrected within a day or two. At night, it
is most important to allow our greyhound to sleep either with
you, or near by in his crate. This makes him feel especially
safe. If you choose not to let him into the bedroom, please
keep him nearby to develop confidence using soft words of assurance.
Another important thing to remember is, a dog may cry for the
first night or two. This is normal, for he is nervous
and confused. If you give into his demands, you are setting
yourself up for some real trouble! Once he figures out
that he will get what he wants when crying, and whining... he
will use it to his advantage quite often. DON'T
DO IT for your own sake!
"Tips to help with Separation Anxiety"
Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when they’re left alone. Typically, they’ll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time (20-45 minutes) after their owners leave them.
The most common of these behaviors are:
Digging, chewing and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners.
Howling, barking and crying in an attempt to get their owner to return.
Urination and defecation (even with house trained dogs) as a result of distress.
Why Do Dogs Suffer From Separation Anxiety?
We don’t fully understand exactly why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don’t. It’s important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occurs with separation anxiety is not the dog’s attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone, but is actually a panic response.
Separation anxiety sometimes occurs when:
- A dog has never or rarely been left alone.
- Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and* dog are constantly together.
- After a traumatic event (from the dog’s point of view) such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
- After a change in the family’s routine or structure (a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, a new pet or person in the home).
How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?
Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it’s essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment.
If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:
- The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he’s left alone.
- He follows you from room to room whenever you’re home.
- He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
- The behavior always occurs when he’s left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
- He reacts with excitement, depression or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
- He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
What To Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.
- Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him.
- Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, an old tee shirt that you’ve slept in recently, for example.
- Establish a "safety cue"--a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you’ll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it’s helpful to associate a safety cue with your practice departures and short-duration absences.
- Some examples of safety cues are: a playing radio; a playing television; a bone; or a toy (one that doesn’t have dangerous fillings and can’t be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions, but don’t present your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate or the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn’t particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you’ve used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone-like products are good choices.
Desensitization Techniques For More Severe Cases Of Separation Anxiety
The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences.
We recommend the following procedure:
- Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
- Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
- Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
- Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
- Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress (the number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem). If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you’ve proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
- When your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I’ll be back.'), leaving and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you’re gone.
- Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
- Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he’ll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won’t have to work up to all-day absences minute by minute. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
Teaching The Sit-Stay And Down-Stay
Practice sit-stay or down-stay exercises using positive reinforcement. Never punish your dog during these training sessions. Gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. Your goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position. The point is to teach him that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you’re watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or quietly praise him.
Interim Solutions
Because the above-described treatments can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or your home in the interim, some of the following suggestions may be helpful in dealing with the problems in the short term:
Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you’re gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
- Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
- Leave your dog with a friend, family member or neighbor.
- Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.
What Won’t Help A Separation Anxiety Problem:
- Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, if you punish your dog after you return home it may actually increase his separation anxiety.
- Getting another pet. This usually doesn’t help an anxious dog as his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
- Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
- Leave the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue" - see above).
- Obedience school. While obedience training is always a good idea, it won’t directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training, it’s a panic response.
Article submitted by: © Dumb Friends League
"Help with Separation Anxiety and Thunderstorm Fears"
The link below contains a wealth of information about research into how sound can help treat animals with severe separation anxiety, phobias, such as fear of thunderstorms, and various other behavior issues.
ThroughADogsEar.com
"Greyhounds and Kids"
Some tips to creating a wonderful relationship between your grey and your child:
* NEVER leave child and dog alone unsupervised
* Reprimand the dog firmly (but NOT physically) immediately if it should ever growl at your child. Usually a good stern NO is all that is needed to get your point across to the gentle greyhound. Always find out what actions precipitated the growling and reprimand the child as well.
* Let your child assist in the care of your greyhound. Even very young children can be taught to carry food bowls, give out treats, and take part in some of the grooming that your dog may require. If your dog knows any commands (sit, stay, etc.) teach your child to have the dog obey one of them before setting his dinner down or giving him a treat. In this way the greyhound will learn that children are above them in the pack structure and in the long run you will avoid conflict.
* NEVER let a child under the age of 14 walk your greyhound. Retired racing greyhounds are big strong dogs who for their whole lives have been taught to chase anything that moves. They are not mindful of traffic or obstacles when they are in "chase" mode and not only might a younger child lose a grip on the leash, but they may even be pulled into danger. For everyone's safety - DON'T take that chance!!
* Read to your children and talk to them prior to getting a greyhound. Many good books are available to teach children to be kind and respectful of animals and preparing a child and setting rules and limits prior to adoption can only have positive results.
* Read Brian Kilcommons book Childproofing Your Dog. While not written specifically for greyhound adoption, it features many great tips for creating a positive relationship between your child and his/her dog. It is a fantastic book that should be a MUST READ for anyone with children and dogs.
"Greyhounds and Cats"
By Judy Kody Paulsen
Greyhounds and Cats (and Other Fuzzy Things!)
As most of you know, greyhounds can learn to live with and respect cats and other small furry creatures. Although racing greyhounds have been trained to chase a lure, they can be taught to coexist with live, furry things. However, a responsible person must teach them. The belief that greyhounds trained on "live lure" cannot learn to accept cats has been disproven time and again. It is true that these dogs are more likely to present a challenge initially, but common sense and patience go a long way in overcoming their intense interest in small furry things.
Indoor Cats vs. Outdoor Cats
When indoors, the greyhound sees the cat as part of the family, although there may be times that a game of chase will ensue if the cat initiates it. However, even a greyhound that lives compatibly with cats in the house can show a desire to chase and capture a cat when outdoors. The message here is that cats running outdoors can provoke a greyhound's prey instinct, especially if it is a cat that is not regularly encountered inside the home. Neighbor's cats or stray cats will most certainly be viewed as intruders in the greyhound's yard, so never assume your greyhound has learned to accept all fuzzy things, just because he sleeps with one in your home.
Trusting a greyhound alone with a cat in the initial stages of adaptation can be an invitation to disaster. Always be sure a person is present when greyhounds are learning to interact with other animals in your home. Do not leave greyhounds unattended with the other animals until you are certain that they have learned to view them as part of the family rather than part of the "main course". If you introduce new furry members to your family, do not assume the greyhound will understand this is a counterpart to the existing family of "furries" until you have supervised their interaction often enough to feel confident that there is harmony among them.
Controlled Introduction
Keeping a greyhound on a leash indoors during the introduction phase is wise, even if this has to be done for several days or weeks to ensure the safety of the other members of your animal family. Each time you walk through the house with the greyhound on the leash, there should be some interaction with the other animals, even if it is just a glance in their direction as the greyhound acknowledges their presence. Any act of aggression by the greyhound should be discouraged with a firm "NO." Pause to let the greyhound continue to observe the other animal, but always discourage lunging, growling, or any other indication of aggression. When the greyhound turns its head away from the other animal, always praise him — this is a good sign that he is beginning to understand he is not to further pursue the animal. Allow the other animals to approach the greyhound, but keep a firm hold on the leash and be prepared to prevent any sudden move toward the other animal.
Having other persons present, if possible, can hasten the introduction if they can keep the cat or other animal from retreating quickly from the greyhound. A rapid retreat almost always encourages the greyhound to chase.
Cats can be especially effective in laying their own ground rules for allowing the greyhound to approach. Cats that hiss, spit, growl, and/or arch their backs when being approached will dissuade the greyhound from wanting to approach the cat. After all, a greyhound has never experienced a "lure" at the track that defiantly stands its ground! This could be a most distressing sight for a dog that has always been the pursuer!
Kittens are especially vulnerable to the greyhound, as they are often curious and certainly not capable of escaping a predator as fast and nimble as a greyhound. Take great care when introducing kittens to greyhounds.
Looking outside
Looking Through the Window
Introducing a greyhound to cats or other small animals by way of letting them see one another through fences, gates, or windows will almost surely produce an agitated greyhound that may never overcome the urge to want that particular animal. This is especially true of the situation where a cat peers through the window from the outside, then dashes quickly away upon sight of the greyhound. This situation is similar to the training methods used when the greyhound is teased from puppyhood with a small fuzzy lure. The idea is to never let the greyhound get hold of the lure, but to produce frustration in the continued attempts to do so. This intensifies the desire to continually pursue the object that keeps escaping. The likelihood of creating a peaceful coexistence between a greyhound and a cat is considerably diminished if the first sighting is through a window.
One at a Time, Please!
Introductions should be done with one animal at a time. Don't bring a greyhound into a room with numerous animals and expect him to learn the look, smell, and behavior of each individual and then to remember upon the next encounter that this one is part of the family. Let them meet one on one, before doing a "group therapy session"! Each animal may behave differently which will be producing multiple signals from you as you respond to the signals you are receiving from the greyhound. Once the initial individual introductions have been done, you can get the group together under controlled circumstances.
Occasionally, you will find that a greyhound on lead tends to be more aggressive toward other animals, especially dogs. This possibly could be that the greyhound on lead feels vulnerable and incapable of defining his boundaries to the perceived intruder (another animal off lead). If you feel the other animal presents no threat to the greyhound and vice versa, remove the lead. Keep your hand on the collar briefly so that you can intervene in case the greyhound becomes aggressive. If you step away, you often will witness a mutual acceptance between two dogs.
People Problems
Another common obstacle to a peaceful introduction between animals is the tension in the people doing the introduction. Animals are exceptional detectors of nervousness in people, and they can respond by duplicating this tension. If the people are tense, then the animals will be tense as well. This is not to say that a complacent attitude will accelerate acceptance between pets, because you must supervise. But supervision with a calm, patient approach will aid in producing calmness in the animals.
The Disinterested Greyhound
Many times, a greyhound will show little or no interest in cats. This is a most welcome occurrence, especially for the overly concerned cat owner. Predicting which greyhounds will behave this way is almost impossible. Greyhounds that have lost interest in the lure at the track (which means immediate retirement) will usually have no desire to chase anything else. If you can obtain a history from the trainer on why the dog retired, and if this history indicates the dog quit chasing the lure, you can assume this dog will be easier to train to accept cats or other "furries".
During puppy training, prior to competing on the track (up to 18 months of age), a trainer can identify the dogs that don't exhibit much prey drive. These dogs will never make it on the track, but they will usually be exceptional pets. It is unfortunate that many of these dogs are destroyed only because they wanted to run to the trainer rather than to the lure.
greyhounds
Multiple Pets
Some of the most rewarding experiences we have with our pets are in observing them relating to one another. It's a great source of entertainment and the only admission fee is the time you invest in the proper introduction of all the characters. Enjoy!
"Cat Training the Retired Racer"
Many people have asked me how I achieve results teaching retired greyhounds to get along with cats so I thought I'd share what my experience has taught me. Remember, these are only my methods; they are not the only ones and maybe not the best for everyone. But they work for me.
Success will not come overnight so the very first thing you'll need is patience. And hopefully a cat that doesn't run at the sight of a dog. These athletes were, after all, trained to chase a small furry thing as fast as their legs could carry them and now you want to un-train them. I have a sixteen-year-old Siamese that will hiss and growl at a new dog and most of them don't like that at all. They seem to recognize it as "Get away from me, you big galoot!"
Before you bring the dog into the house, make sure the resident cat population is safely locked up in a separate room and let the dog explore the house. If he comes to the closed door let him sniff and get used to the scent. You want to take this time to develop a good relationship with the dog, lavishing attention on him, but also letting him know you're the boss. This is the time I like to teach the dog the "three voices." (If you've raised kids you know what I'm talking about.) First, the soothing, loving tone you'd use with a baby, showing him you love him. Second, the happy, excited voice of praise that you want him to strive for, and third, the 'alpha bark' that he will know immediately as disapproval. When you use the first two it helps to accompany the tone with physical affection so he learns more quickly. The third is a sharp "FIDO! NO!" If you were to observe a pack of wolves you'd notice the alpha using very similar communication. And these voices will come into use long after the dog is cat-trained, too.
Once you have established the pecking order and you're convinced the dog is comfortable in his new surroundings, it's time to test his reaction to seeing a cat up close. Again, here it is essential that the cat doesn't or can't run and hide but DON'T HOLD THE CAT! You could get seriously hurt doing that. Since racing hounds are collar trained I find a good grip on the collar is useful and normally all it takes to keep the dog reined in. And I like to introduce the animals without muzzling the dog; I want to watch his mouth and eyes. Bring the dog within six feet of the cat and observe him: Does he point like a bird dog? Does he get a locked-on "radar eyes" look? Does he drool and lick his chops? If the answer to any of these is yes you've either got a project on your hands or a dog with too strong a prey drive. The reaction may be more like wanting to play: ears perked up, tail wagging, a little whine or whimper -- maybe even a bark. Or it could be something in between the two (or no noticeable reaction), which is what we hope to get and what I will concentrate on in this guide.
It might be advisable at this point to take the dog out of the room again and let him think about this new 'thing' in his life. (And let the cat calm down!) He'll probably want to get back in the room and that's okay; he's curious. But you want to wait until he's forgotten it before you take him back in there. Distract him with playing or going outside. When you take him to visit kitty again the work will begin in earnest.
During the second visit that relationship I talked about will come into play because you and the dog MUST trust each other. He is going to want to stare at the cat and you are going to stop him! How? Step in his way (while keeping a good grip on the collar) and, with your free hand, cup his snout and lift his head so your eyes meet. Firmly say "NO!" and step back out of the way. He will look again so repeat the procedure and keep repeating it until he lets you know he understands he shouldn't look. Oh, he'll still WANT to but he won't want to hear that disapproving voice. Now take him out again. This lesson will need to be reinforced at least a few times before going to the next step.
Now it's time for the muzzle. Bring the dog into the cat's room, holding the collar again but giving him more slack this time. If he doesn't try to go after kitty let him loose but stay between them. If he moves toward the cat now, repeat the previous step and let him go again. Do this as many times as necessary but give the poor cat a break, too.
Once you feel these first two lessons have been learned you can allow the muzzled dog unrestrained access to the cat's area but with your supervision. Given enough time even a muzzled dog could do a lot of harm to your smaller pet. If nothing happens here you're well on your way to a cat-safe greyhound and you can gradually let the two spend more time together -- including sleeping at night. And eventually without the muzzle.
So far, we've been working on the premise that the dog isn't desperate to play with kitty and that kitty doesn't try to run away immediately. If either of these circumstances comes about it will mean the process will take longer and the methods will differ slightly. If the dog wants to play and chase I'd recommend using the leash for the first step rather than just the collar. When the dog stares at the cat or lunges (again, we've already determined that it's play he wants) jerk back sharply while barking "NO!" at him. Repeat as needed, until he no longer goes for the cat. Now, if the CAT won't cooperate, that's a whole different story. You'd have to train kitty and we all know how impossible THAT is. That's where the patience is saintly. You'll just have wait until the cat isn't as fearful.
I had one foster dog that completed every lesson but will still bite a cat that gets too close, as he will a small dog. Sometimes instincts are just too strong. But that particular dog is one of the most loving, gentle animals I've ever known. He adores my daughter, gets along wonderfully with my two greyhounds and he loves to cuddle. I still baby-sit him on occasion; I just don't let him near my cats without being between them. A failure? No, he's a fantastic pet. He just can't live with any small animals.
Owen Johnson, 1999
"Feeding"
-
WHAT
TO FEED~ Greyhounds should be fed a superior quality
dog food, due to their sensitive digestive systems.
You can mix it with water, a little canned food, or some
table scraps if you so desire. Try to avoid supermarket
brands, as they may cause diarrhea, gas, and a large volume
of stool. Also remember, when changing a dog's diet,
make sure to do it over a 3 week time frame, gradually increasing
the mixture of the new food, into the food the dog has been
used to.
-
HOW
MUCH TO FEED~
We recommend that you start off with 2 1/2 to 3 cups twice
daily, and then observe your dog over a few weeks to determine
his optimum feeding schedule. Never feed more than
3 cups of dry food per meal, or a dangerous condition called
"BLOAT" (Gastric Dilation/Volvulus) could occur.
Just use your judgment. If your dog is too thin, feed
it more (possibly adding a 3rd meal for a while); if you're
dog is overweight, cut down on it's food. You should
be able to feel your dogs' ribs, and just be able to see
them. If you can't feel your dogs ribs easily, it
may be overweight. While most greyhounds are good
eaters, some may be picky -- get to know your own dog and
its habits. If you have any questions about your dogs
ideal weight, make sure to speak with your veterinarian.
-
DIARRHEA~
It is not unusual for your dog to experience some diarrhea
in its' first few days at home. The change of routine,
stress, and different food can be contributing factors.
If your dog does get diarrhea, feed a small amount (1 cup
or so) of THROROUGHLY cooked
rice, or some pasta mixed with well-drained, boiled hamburger
meat. If this doesn't help, or if your dog is not
acting normally (poor appetite, vomiting, lethargic), call
your veterinarian immediately for advice.
-
SNACKS~
Too many in-between-meal snacks should be avoided, as they
tend to spoil the dog's appetite for his regular meal. Furthermore,
store bought snacks can be very fattening.
REMEMBER.. .NEVER FEED YOUR DOG CHOCOLATE!
"Choosing a Vet to Care for Your Retired Racer"
Your choice of veterinarian is an important decision. Try to locate a vet who has worked with greyhounds. Greyhounds require only one fifth of the anesthesia that would be used on another dog of the same size. This is because they are lacking certain enzymes which break down anesthetic in their systems. It is very important that your vet knows this, as an overdose can be fatal. If you are unsure, ASK your Vet, or call Paula 518 261 7025 for a referral to a Greyhound safe Veterinarian !
Your greyhound should have a complete booster shot, heartworm test, rabies shot and physical once a year. Heartworm preventive medication should be used regularly.
Below, You will find a list of Veterinarians that are approved and recommended by Forever Home Greyhound Adoptions, sorted by area:
| ALBANY: |
Sand Creek Veterinary Hospital
Dr.'s McDaniel and Carmichael
454 Sand Creek Rd-Albany 446-9171 |
Dr Donald Dries
1506 Western Ave, Albany
456-6333 |
| SCHENECTADY: |
Guilderland Animal Hospital
4963 Western Tpk, Guilderland
355-0260 |
Veterinary Specialist Referral Centre
DR Glennon
1641 Main St, Pattersonville
887-2260 |
| |
Dr. Pamela Serba ( Acupuncturist )
Half Moon Veterinary Hospital
518-383-2443 or 518-461-2141 cell
http://www.HolisticPetCareToday.com/ |
|
| RENSSALEAR: |
Bloomingrove Animal Hospital
Dr Stone
498 N. Greenbush Rd, Rennsalear
283-2700 |
|
| SARATOGA: |
Burnt Hills Animal Hospital
Dr Gondek
145 Goode Street, Burnt Hills
399-5213 |
Dr Ronald Peters
3161 State Rte 40, Greenwich
692-9636 |
| GREEN: |
Catskill Animal Hospital
Dr Dave Jenkins
601 Kings Rd Catskill
943-4340 |
|
"My Female GH keeps licking her personal area"
You may notice that your female Greyhound spends excessive time licking her personal area. If the behavior continues for more than a couple days, you should have your vet examine her for a condition called PERIVULVAR DERMATITIS which is a condition caused by the testosterone administered to your Greyhound to keep her from cycling while she is is training and during her racing career. The Testosterone causes what is known as an UNDERDEVELOPED or JUVENILE VULVA that is sometimes so small that it is actually recessed , making it very prone to moisture and inflamation. You will need a vet who is WELL VERSED IN GREYHOUND ISSUES. This condition is quite painful and sometimes requires surgery to correct the problem.
In some cases, however, a product called NEO-PREDEF POWDER will work quite well in conjunction with a BITE NOT COLLAR to prevent further licking and curtail further inflamation and irritation. The NEO_PREDEF powder is administered with a PUFFER bottle which allows application without actually touching the affected sensitive area. Twice daily cleansing and powdering sometimes helps . Consult your GREYHOUND SAVVY vet if your female is exhibiting excessive licking in that area.
"ShelterCare Pet Health Insurance"
The information in this section is from www.ShelterCare.com:
Click Here to see available plans.
Click Here to learn more about the benefits of Shelter Care programs.
30 Days of ShelterCare Pet Insurace is availiable for free, with the implantation of our Micro Chips.
Part of Loving is Protecting
Responsible pet ownership means visiting your veterinarian on a regular basis for routine treatments, vaccinations and examinations. However, statistics show that pets will require unexpected treatments from time to time throughout their lifetimes.
Your vet is a highly skilled expert who has the ability to practice the latest medical techniques often required to return your pet to good health. Insuring your pet will assist you in managing the costs associated with high quality veterinary care.
ShelterCare Claims are processed very quickly, an average time of 4 days from the date received. If the clinic the adopter goes to uses EVE (our online claims service), the claim will be processed real-time, onsite.
The Benefits of PetCare Pet Insurance Programs
- Comprehensive coverage of veterinary fees.
Veterinary fees covered include but are not limited to: prescribed medication, X-rays, surgeries, hospitalization, ultrasounds, MRI/CAT scans, homeopathic treatments including acupuncture and chiropractic, chemotherapy, and referrals. Endoscopy is also covered in cases of foreign body ingestion requiring surgery.
- Enroll your pet as early as 8 weeks of age.
Coverage for all PetCare Pet Insurance Programs can begin as early as 8 weeks of age. Once enrolled your pet can stay on on PetCare Pet Insurance Program for life. For QuickCare and QuickCare for Indoor Cats, there is no upper age limit for enrollment. For QuickCare Gold, enrollment is possible up to age 10 for cats, age 8 for dogs (6 for 'select' dog breeds).
- Unlimited Accident Coverage.
PetCare Pet Insurance Programs provide coverage for an unlimited number of listed accidents, each covered to the maximum benefit as detailed in the policy terms and conditions. No maximum annual or lifetime accident benefit restrictions.
- Flexible illness benefits.
QuickCare for Indoor Cats, QuickCare Gold and QuickCare Senior provide flexible and accessible illness protection for your pet by covering a wide range of illnesses as detailed in the coverage charts. There are no maximum annual illness benefit restrictions, and you may choose when and how you use your illness benefits. The maximum benefit payable for each illness category is detailed in the coverage charts on the appropriate pages.
- Your accident coverage begins immediately.
Accident Coverage begins at 12:01am the morning after your enrollment application is approved. Illness coverage will begin 30 days following enrollment for QuickCare Gold. No physical examination is required.
- Fast claims turn-around.
Your claim will be processed within five business days of our receiving and approving your completed claim with supporting documentation.
- We pay 100% of payable claims.
A PetCare Pet Insurance Program policy pays 100% of all payable claims, less the fixed deductible up to your pet's coverage limit. Exclusively for QuickCare Gold policy holders, from the pet's 8th birthday (6th for select breed dogs) the policy holder will be responsible for the first 20% of any claims.
- Fixed premiums.
Premiums and deductibles do not automatically increase as your pet ages. Premiums are not higher when you sign up an older pet.
- Guaranteed acceptance.
All breeds of dogs and cats are accepted. For QuickCare Gold, medical records are required at the time of enrollment. Once enrolled your pet is guaranteed coverage for the rest of it's life, up to policy limits. Some conditions may apply*. Please see policy terms and conditions for details.
- Pick your veterinarian.
With the PetCare Pet Insurance Programs, you can use the registered liscensed veterinarian of your choice.
- To keep your policy in force, take your veterinarian's advice.
We ask you to have your pet examined annually by your veterinarian and keep current with the vaccinations he/she recommends. It's a good way to keep your pet healthy, and it's also a condition of your continued PetCare Pet Insurance Program coverage.
- There is a small “Select” breed surcharge for dogs covered by QuickCare Gold and QuickCare Senior.
- Some breeds are more susceptible to certain illnesses, therefore QuickCare Gold and QuickCare Senior premiums are slightly higher for the following Select Breeds: American Staffordshire Terriers, Basset Hounds, Basenjis, Boxers, Bulldogs, **Bull Terriers, Dalmatians, Deerhounds, Doberman Pinschers, Dogue de Bordeaux, German Shepherds (including German Shepherds, King), All Greyhounds (including Italian Greyhounds), Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, Leonbergers, All Mastiff breeds, All Mountain Terriers/Dogs, Newfoundlands, Old English Sheepdogs, Peruvian Inca Orchid, Pharaoh Hounds, Pit Bull Terriers, Rottweilers, St. Bernards, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, Wheaton Terriers.
**Bull Terrier Group includes Pitbulls, American Staffordshire and Staffordshire Bull Terriers
*** Chinese Shar-pei and Shar-pei cross-breeds are eligible for accident coverage only. QuickCare Gold for Dogs and QuickCare Senior for Dogs are the only polices with a select breed surcharge. There are NO *Select Breed surcharges on any other PetCare Pet Insurance Program.
- Monthly Pay Plan Fee
For those who choose to pay their premiums on a monthly basis, a $2.00 service charge will be added to the monthly premium payable.This fee is waived for those who pay annually.
- A common-sense exclusion to keep premiums affordable.
We cannot provide coverage for existing conditions, injuries, medical conditions and symptoms of concern that were evident prior to enrollment on a policy or which occur during the waiting period. Exclusions may be temporary or permanent.
- Policy renewals.
Your policy is continuous provided your premium payments are up-to-date. Your policy can be canceled by you or by us, with proper notice as described in your policy Terms and Conditions. Claims will only be paid if your premium payments are up-to-date. We’re sure you’ll agree that PetCare Pet Insurance Program offer the best value and the best pricing, helping you protect your pet. Please seek the advice of your veterinarian.
- Hereditary and Chronic Defects Coverage.
Gold policies offer coverage for chronic and hereditary defects, including hip dysplasia.
Most Commonly Occurring ShelterCare Gift Claims:
- 1. Upper Respiratory Tract Infections
- 2. Intestinal Parasites
- 3. Kennel Cough/Infectious Tracheobronchitis
- 4. Canine Parvovirus/Feline Panleukopenia
- 5. Ear Infections
- 6. Mange/Mite Infection
- 7. Urinary Tract Infections
- 8. Fracture
- 9. Poison Ingestion
- 10. Motor Vehicle Accident
- 11. Foreign Body Removal
"Making Anesthesia Safe for Greyhounds"
Veterinary Information
by Dr. Harry S. Newman, DVM
Do not be afraid or embarrassed to discuss anesthesia protocol for your greyhound with your veterinarian. If he or she has had minimal experience with greyhounds and anesthesia, provide them with a copy of this information. This information may save your greyhound's life.
PRINCIPALS FOR ADMINISTERING ANESTHESIA
TO GREYHOUNDS
- Never use thiobarbituates including Biotal, Surital, or Pentothal. Acepromazine
is a safe and reliable preanesthetic tranquilizer in the greyhound.
- Diazepam and Ketamine combination or Telazole are safe IV anesthetic drugs
to use for intubation.
- Isoflurane is the most common gas anesthetic of choice. It is exceptionally safe
and recovery is rapid.
- Greyhounds should have IV fluids administered during all major procedures lasting
greater than 45 minutes. The rate of infusion is 10 ml/kg/hour.
- Greyhounds are prone to hypothermia while under anesthesia and should be kept
on a heated water pad or other source of safe heat during surgery.
- There is no age limitation for surgically spaying or neutering greyhounds, but
proper presurgical workups should be done and all workups should include platelet evaluation. This will further insure the safety of an anesthetic procedure.
PROCEDURE
- 1. Give a dose of 0.1cc of Acepromazine subcutaneously 30 minutes before administering anesthesia. This will result in a smoother recovery.
- 2. Give atropine sulfate or preferably glycopyrrolate at the time of surgical induction with the intravenous anesthetic.
- 3. A reliable IV induction anesthetic combination consists of equal amounts of diazepam and ketamine drawn up in the same syringe. The calculated dose of this combination is approximately 1 cc of the mixture per 20 pounds of body weight. Telazol is a safe drug to use in place of diazepam and ketamine. It is dosed at 1 cc per 100 pounds of body weight. Propofol* is another safe alternative.
- 4. Isoflurane is then used at about 1.5 - 2 % to maintain anesthesia. Sevoflurane* can also be used.
*This article was updated to include the newer drugs Propofol and Sevoflurane.
"Tick Diseases: An Overview"
What Are They?
There are many things that make the greyhound breed unique among dogs and one of those is the fact that most often they spend the majority of their lives in a state other than the one in which they were born and raised. Most of them spend their first two to five years (or longer) in the states that have dog racing and it seems those states also have something in common: ticks. In fact, some of the racing states are noted for their tick infestations. And ticks like dogs.
When you put together these factors you have a situation that is ripe for high infection rates (over 50% in some areas) in racing greyhounds. Many of the dogs leave the tracks, moving through the adoption process either sick with tick borne diseases (TBD) or carrying them with no noticeable symptoms. Some of these dogs' careers are ended prematurely because they are sick and cannot run as well as they did before they were stricken. It is important for the greyhound owner or prospective owner to have some understanding of TBD, what they can do, how to test for them and how they are treated.
The two most common TBD's in greyhounds are ehrlichiosis and babesiosis. The two diseases are different from each other in the actual form of infection but are very similar in most other ways. They both are cyclical, like malaria, with three primary stages. In the early stage (acute) the dog commonly (but not always) becomes quite ill with flu-like symptoms and sometimes unresponsive diarrhea. This may go on for a few weeks or a few months until either the immune system builds up enough antibodies to fight it to a standoff or the dog dies. If the dog survives thanks to a good immune response, the disease will then go into a sort of dormant stage (subclinical), usually with no symptoms showing. This stage may go on for years; in fact the dog might never be sick from it again in its' lifetime. However, some dogs will exhibit seemingly unrelated or mysterious problems that can baffle many veterinarians, leading to inconclusive tests, incorrect diagnoses and unsuccessful treatments. And sometimes the symptoms will disappear as mysteriously as they appeared. Until the third (chronic) stage. At this time the dog may become seriously ill overnight or gradually, again confusing the veterinarian who is not familiar with these diseases. Usually, the dog dies in this stage and if not (due to treatment at this time), damage may be irreparable.
Should My Greyhound Be Tested?
Testing for TBD is a simple and relatively painless procedure accomplished with a simple blood draw and laboratory testing. However, the blood sample should be sent to a lab that specializes in these tests if the owner hopes to get accurate results. Protatek Reference Lab in Arizona is the best known and probably the best lab for tick panels (480-545-8499). Your veterinarian can contact the lab for the correct procedure to follow if he or she is not familiar with the testing. The test itself (IFA) consists of searching for and measuring the concentration of antibodies in the blood stream the dog will have developed to fight the foreign proteins present if he has been exposed. The results are measured and reported in titers; normally the higher the concentration (titer number) the more likely the veterinarian is to want to treat the dog. This may be incorrect, though, as the titer number actually represents the dog's success in manufacturing antibodies; a dog with a stronger immune system might show a higher titer number but be more healthy than the dog with the lower number caused by a weaker immune response. And there is NO titer number universally accepted by vets as indicating treatment should be given nor do the numbers give anyone an idea of which stage of disease the dog is in at the time. Complicating matters is the fact that inconsistencies in the reading of titers or the technique used can lead to a considerable difference in the number reported. For example, one test may give a titer number of 1:40, considered to be a "negative" reading (minimal exposure, but exposure nonetheless), while another on the same dog, the same day, may show it as high as 1:160 which is seen as indicating a positive result and/or an active infection.
With either disease being considered, early testing will at least enable the owner to eliminate TBD as a cause of many indeterminate illnesses if the results are negative. (Since the IFA test is measuring antibodies a false negative may result from testing too early - before the immune system has had the opportunity to develop them - so it is a good idea to wait until the dog has been away from racing for about six months.) If the test results are positive but are not followed with treatment, it gives the owner and the veterinarian a known possible cause to eliminate with treatment if a hard-to-diagnose problem should ever occur. A good example of this is a dog with stiffness and pain in the neck or back. If the dog was never tested for TBD or a test showed the dog had been exposed a trial of doxycycline may be advised; if the condition improves there is a good chance it was caused by ehrlichiosis. Treatment with the doxycycline should be continued then for the full course. Prednisone should not be used at this time, as it would confuse the results of the doxy trial.
Should My Greyhound Be Treated?
The answer to this uncertainty is to treat any dog that tests positive, in my view - why wait until your dog is sick and suffering needlessly? The veterinarian in an area not noted for ticks may have to be convinced and if that's not possible it's probably a good idea to find a new vet. Especially in the case of babesiosis, many animal doctors are reluctant to treat a dog that isn't symptomatic and sometimes even one that is. The reason is that the recommended treatment for this disease, Imidocarb, has in the past caused some dogs to suffer serious side effects. But today, with more treatment experience overall, these stories are mostly a thing of the past. Dosages have been adjusted so that side effects are less likely while maintaining the same success rate and early treatment is advantageous since the dog is still strong and in good overall health, thereby minimizing problems of side effects There is NO advantage gained by waiting until the dog is obviously ill. For ehrlichiosis the recognized treatment is doxycycline or tetracycline--antibiotics. These are given orally and rarely cause serious side effects.
Another reason for testing a dog and treating one that tests positive is that immuno-suppressant drugs like prednisone can tip the scale in the delicate balance between the dog's immune system and the disease. Many dogs develop autoimmune diseases and need these drugs to survive while others will receive prednisone as an anti-inflammatory for a myriad of different problems, such as arthritis or skin problems. Many of the symptoms displayed by unrecognized TBD might indicate the use of prednisone to the unsuspecting vet, causing more confusion and worsening the dog's condition quickly.
There is a well-thought-out theory that exposure to tick borne diseases may contribute to what appears to be a high rate of cancer, especially osteosarcoma, in greyhounds. Considering what we already know about environmental, diet and lifestyle factors affecting the likelihood of various cancers in humans, it stands to reason that the havoc wreaked by TBD's on a dog's systems and organs would make it more susceptible, too. While it seems there have been no definitive studies on this and may never be any, it certainly gives the owner another reason to avoid the long-term damage TBD's cause.
Once treated, the dog will generally never be sick from these diseases unless it is re-infected by being exposed again--a rarity for greyhounds after adoption. Exposure requires that the infected tick feed on the dog for a day or more so proper care taken in prevention should avoid that. If the dog resides in an area known for ticks or travels to such an area a good flea and tick treatment should be applied and these can be purchased easily from an animal clinic or from better pet supply stores or even online. While it should be noted here that certain flea and tick preventatives should not be used on greyhounds other products are perfectly fine to use. Consult your veterinarian for recommendations. (Note: Although less common there are other ways a dog can be infected, i.e., contaminated blood or needles. Blood donors are, or should be, tested and eliminated from any donor program if they test positive.)
Keep in mind this article is merely a very general overview and was not written by a veterinarian. Some of the information was gathered through direct consultation with practitioners, however. For a more in-depth explanation of these diseases click here. And feel free to print this page and the following article if you think your vet needs the information.
"Glucosamine and Joint Health"
Greyhounds are athletes and just like any other athletes their joints have had a lot wear and tear put on them by running. Arthritis to some extent is a likely result of this stress. It will not be apparent when a dog first retires and may not be obvious for many years but there's a good chance as he gets older he will begin to stiffen. Sounds ominous, doesn't it? Well, it doesn't have to be a problem at all if you take care of those joints.
How do I do that, you may ask. Very simple: glucosamine. This is a supplement made from an amino sugar derived from shellfish and is completely natural. It is said to be a building block of cartilage and can actually help rebuild the cartilage in the joints as well as lubricate them.
I began to notice when my oldest greyhound was about nine years old he was having a little trouble getting up from his bed; it seemed to take him a few seconds longer than it should and it looked like a struggle at times. I had read some articles about glucosamine and read the claims, along with a few testimonials. Now, I am a real skeptic and don't jump into something just because a few people say good things about it. But I decided to give it a try for Bo's sake. I ordered some and started giving him the recommended dose of 1500 mg. a day, mixed with his dinner, and within a month I saw a difference. He was getting up just as quickly as my younger hound and he became more playful--not quite like a young pup but definitely more active. I was sold.
Two very nice things about this supplement are it's not expensive and it has no apparent side effects. You can get it in powder-filled capsules to mix with food or in tablets. I prefer the powder, as it saves me the trouble of sticking my hand in his VERY large and toothy mouth. Bo is, by all accounts, a big, big greyhound at 29 inches at his shoulder and nearly four feet long--makes for a long reach to the back of his tongue. And slobbery.
If your dog has an advanced case of arthritis you might want to consider also giving him or her chondroitin sulfate--shark cartilage. This is a very powerful supplement and in conjunction with glucosamine it has helped many people with serious arthritis and other joint problems. Often the two are sold in a combination and that would probably be the simplest way to give them.
Forever Home Greyhound Adoptions endorses NuVet Plus, and we encourage all of our Greyhound adoptors to use it to promote longevity and good health for their Retired Racing Greyhounds. NuVet Plus signifigantly reduces and in many cases prevents or eliminates many problems that strike your Greyhound such as.... Scratching, Itching, Hot Spots, Allergies, Arthritis, Premature Aging, Low Energy Levels, Cataracts, Digestive Problems, Heart Disease, and Tumors. To order call 800-474-7044 and use our order code, 99903, to receive the WHOLESALE price. You may also place your order by visiting http://www.nuvet.com/99903. When you order NuVet Plus Daily Canine Supplement for your puppy or older dogs, and put it on AutoShip, they will give you an additional 15% off the wholesale price and your orders will automatically ship! You can't believe the difference this will make in your pets! I know it has for mine!
Start your pet on the path to perfect health with NuVet Plus Canine Supplement !!
These are the very best dog vitamins / supliments I have run across . These vitamins / supliments are what I call a "miracle pill" They are everything the nuvet labs claim, and then some. I switched all my dogs to these vitamins . I have seen a 100% improvement in all the dogs.These vitamins are the "Diamond" of all pet vitamins on the market. There are no others that can come close to the quality or the freshness.
Guaranteed to be the freshest "Nuvet Plus" Pet vitamins you will find.
NuVet Plus is made by NuVet Labs. The Veterinarians, Physicians, Pharmacists and Nutritional Scientists of NuVet Labs have blended a precise combination of human grade, natural vitamins, minerals, herbs and antioxidants proven to fight diseases and other "free radicals".
Chewable wafers that can be given as a treat or mixed with food. Your pet will love the taste so much they will lick it off your fingers. Even the pickest eaters will LOVE the taste!!!
Alfalfa (Canine formula only) * Alpha Amylase * Amino Acids * Beta Carotene * Blue Green Algae * Brewer's Yeast * Cat's Claw * Chicken Liver * Copper * Evening Primrose Oil * Iron * L Methionine * Magnesium Manganese * Oyster Shell * Papain * Phosphorus * Pine Bark * Potassium * Selenium (Yeast) * Shark Cartilage * Taurine (Feline formula only) * Vitamin A * Vitamin B Complex * Vitamin B1 (Thiamine) * Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) * Vitamin B3 (Niacin) * Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid) * Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine) * Vitamin B12 * Vitamin C (Ester C™) * Vitamin E * Whey Protein (Feline formula only) * Zinc *
The following list of ingredients and their function is a long list, but if you read on, this list explains everything you'll want to know....
ALFALFA
Alfalfa is known as the "King of Plants", and its roots have been used for centuries in many cultures. The herb belongs to the legume family, closely related to beans and peas. Alfalfa is an excellent source of vitamins D, E and K, beta-carotene, minerals, fiber, chlorophyll, calcium, proteins and fats. It is especially rich in the amino acid trypophane. It is considered to be a very nutritious herb, and is used to increase appetite, alleviate certain allergic reactions and help poor digestion. It may also reduce the inflammation due to arthritis and rheumatism. (Canine formula)
ALPHA AMYLASE
A soluble fiber digestant. We believe NuVet Plus™ is the finest pet supplement available, however it must be able to be digested as efficiently as possible. Alpha Amylase creates the means by which the ingredients will be absorbed into the body as rapidly as possible without diminishing NuVet Plus™' powerful antioxidant capabilities.
AMINO ACIDS
Necessary for the synthesis of body proteins and many other tissue constituents. Amino acids aid in building new muscle, bone and tendon cells; play a vital role in metabolism, stamina, and brain function; and enable vitamins and minerals to be properly absorbed and assimilated. There are approximately twenty-eight amino acids that combine in various ways to create hundreds of different types of proteins. Some amino acids enhance the immune system by stimulating the antioxidant activity of certain enzymes and can help prevent skin and coat problems. Others prevent premature aging, tumors, nerve disease and connective tissue disorders.
Pet foods high in protein may or may not contain all the necessary amino acids to maintain proper health of a pet. This deficiency could cause a host of problems ranging from indigestion, stunted growth, nervous disorders, or worse. NuVet Plus™, with its specifically blended natural ingredients, contains all the critical amino acids that must be introduced through the diet for proper health.
BETA-CAROTENE
The precursor to Vitamin A becomes a powerful free radical scavenger in the body. Vitamin A is essential in skeletal growth, testicular and ovarian function, embryonic development, and differentiation of tissues. It is crucial for proper eye function and possible cataract reduction. Vitamin A is necessary for healthy skin and mucous membranes, the body’s first line of defense against invading microorganisms and toxins, and promotes the immune response. Beta-Carotene and Vitamin A destroy carcinogens (cancer-causing agents), guards against heart disease and stroke, and lowers cholesterol.
BLUE GREEN ALGAE
Blue Green Algae is nature's most basic food. Existing at the beginning of the food chain, it provides nutrition in its simplest form. Blue Green Algae has a greater amount of protein than any other whole food. It provides the essential nutrients for the health of the physical body, and the smooth operation of the brain and nervous system. Blue Green Algae is a very rich chlorophyll source and has been shown to enhance the health of the entire body, strengthen the immune system, promote intestinal regularity and the healing of wounds, boosts hemoglobin production and helps purify the blood. The trace minerals found in blue green algae are Boron, Calcium, Chlorine, Chromium, Cobalt, Copper, Fluorine, Geranium, Iodine, Iron, Magnesium, Maganese, Molybdenum, Nickel, Phosphorus, Potassium, Silicon, Sodium, Tin, Titanium, Vanadium, and Zinc.
BREWER’S YEAST
A balanced, natural source of B-Complex vitamins (also see Chicken Liver). Studies show another beneficial effect of Brewer’s Yeast supplementation is significant reduction of body fleas on companion pets.
CAT’S CLAW (UNA DE GATO)
Cat's Claw, also known as Una de Gato, is an ancient herb, found in the rain forest of Peru. This singular and wild woody vine is known for its amazing healing properties and has been used by native people for centuries. It cleanses the intestinal track, enhances the action of white blood cells, and acts as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. It is good for intestinal problems and viral infections. Research in different countries including Germany, Austria, England, and Hungary has shown that Cat’s Claw can stimulate the immune system and may help in the treatment of diseases including cancer, AIDS, viral or respiratory infections, allergies, arthritis and rheumatism.
CHICKEN LIVER
We use 100% chicken liver, which is paddle-dried in order to retain the omega fatty acids and vitamins A, C, and the B-complex vitamin group. Contains minerals including calcium, copper, phosphorous, and iron. Chicken liver is good for anemia and aids in building healthy red blood cells. It is known to increase energy, fight liver disorders, and help relieve stress in the body.
COPPER
Aids in the formation of red blood cells, and works with Vitamin C to form elastin, an important protein that makes up bone, skin and connective tissue. It aids in the healing process and energy production. This mineral is needed for healthy nerves and joints. A sign of copper deficiency is osteoporosis.
EVENING PRIMROSE OIL
High in gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an essential polyunsaturated fatty acid that promotes cardiovascular health. It is known to prevent hardening of the arteries, heart disease and high blood pressure, and aids in lowering cholesterol. It is helpful in the management of arthritis, rheumatism, certain skin disorders, and can relieve pain and inflammation. Studies have shown it can increase the release of sex hormones and thereby improve reproductive health.
IRON
Necessary for hemoglobin and myoglobin (a type of hemoglobin found in muscle tissue). It is necessary for the oxygenation of red blood cells. Iron helps in protein metabolism and promotes growth. Iron is also necessary for energy production and a healthy immune system. Iron deficiency can cause weakness, anemia, digestive disturbances, fragile bones and hair loss.
L METHIONINE
An essential amino acid that is not synthesized by the body and must be obtained from food or supplements. It is a powerful antioxidant and a good source of sulfur, which neutralizes free radicals and helps prevent skin, coat and nail problems. It can help to detoxify harmful agents such as lead and other heavy metals found in airborne pollutants. L Methionine is essential for the absorption, transportation and bioavailability of selenium and zinc in the body. It also acts as a liptropic agent to prevent excess fat buildup in the liver, and can help to reduce fatigue. It is useful in some allergy cases because it reduces histamine release.
Recent studies show L Methionine supplementation may help delay the development of age-related cataracts. Deficiencies in L Methionine can slow growth and cause low levels of essential proteins in the blood. Lack of it can result in edema, liver damage, loss of muscle and fat, skin lesions and weakness. (Canine formula)
MAGNESIUM
Acts as a catalyst in the utilization of carbohydrates, fats, protein, calcium, phosphorus, and potassium. It is important for energy and healthy maintenance of bones, teeth, arteries, heart and nerves. Research has shown that magnesium can help prevent cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis, and certain forms of cancer.
MANGANESE
An enzyme activator that plays an important part in tissue respiration and carbohydrate and fat metabolism. Necessary for normal skeletal development and to maintain sex-hormone production. Manganese deficiency can lead to paralysis, convulsions, dizziness, deafness and blindness.
OYSTER SHELL
Extremely rich in calcium, the major constituent in the structural framework of bones. Practically every cell in the body, notably those in the heart, nerves, and muscles rely on calcium to function properly. Some experts recommend higher levels of calcium in order to prevent bone loss. The heart requires calcium to maintain a normal beat. Muscles need it for contraction and relaxation, and calcium is essential for blood clotting and proper nervous system function.
Over time, if not enough calcium is consumed, the body takes calcium from the bones to keep the heart and muscles working properly. This process will gradually weaken the bones until they break easily. (All oyster shell used in our product is farm-raised and tested for lead content.)
PAPAIN
Fundamentally aids in the digestion of protein. Papain’s activity helps to cleanse the tissues and intestinal walls. The unique ability of Papain to break down protein and convert a portion of it into Arginine is extremely important because Arginine, in its natural form, has been found to influence the production of HGH. HGH, produced in the pituitary gland, is directly responsible for DNA and RNA replication as well as synthesis in liver, muscle, cartilage, and adipose tissues. HGH helps to increase muscle tone and decrease body fat. Arginine has also been found to inhibit the growth of breast cancer cells in test tube studies.
PHOSPHORUS
Works with calcium to build bones and teeth. Aids the body in the utilization of vitamins, and conversion of food to energy. Deficiencies of phosphorus can lead to loss of weight and appetite, irregular breathing, pyorrhea, fatigue and nervous disorders.
PINE BARK
The proanthocyanidids in Pine Bark have been shown in clinical studies to be 20 times more effective than Vitamin C and 50 times more effective than Vitamin E as an antioxidant. Pine Bark helps relieve pain and symptoms of osteoarthritis, arthritis, rheumatism, and rheumatic fever. It has been shown to reduce histamine production, thereby helping the lining of arteries resist mutagen attacks which cause cardiovascular disease.
Pine Bark’s remarkable ability to “seek and destroy” free radicals is a tremendous benefit to the health of our animals. By reducing oxidative damage to cells and vital tissues, what we recognize as aging (stiff joints, wrinkled skin, degenerative disease problems like arthritis, circulatory disorders, diabetes, heart disease, etc.) is held to a subdued rate. In addition, unlike virtually all other dietary antioxidants, proanthocyanidids readily cross the blood-brain barrier to protect vital brain and nerve tissue from oxidation.
POTASSIUM (CITRATE)
Important for a healthy nervous system and regular heart rhythm. Helps prevent strokes, aids in proper muscle contraction, and works with sodium to control the body’s water balance. Potassium is important for chemical reactions within the cells, aids in maintaining stable blood pressure and proper transmission of eletro-chemical impulses. It also regulates the transfer of nutrients through cell membranes. Signs of potassium deficiency include abnormally dry skin, weakness, paralysis, low blood pressure, and irregular heartbeat which can lead to cardiac arrest and death.
SELENIUM
An essential trace mineral whose principal function is to inhibit the oxidation of lipids (fats). It is a vital antioxidant, especially when combined with Vitamin E. It protects the immune system by preventing the formation of free radicals. It has also been found to function as a preventative against the formation of certain types of tumors. Selenium and Vitamin E act synergistically to aid in the production of antibodies and help maintain a healthy heart and liver. Selenium deficiency has been linked to cancer and heart disease. It has also been associated with exhaustion, growth impairment, high cholesterol levels, infections, liver impairment, pancreatic insufficiency, and sterility.
SHARK CARTILAGE
Contains collagen and glycosaminoglycans. This combination makes shark cartilage a powerful anti-inflammatory wound-healing agent that is non-toxic and has no known side-effects. It is also an effective substance against bacteria, virus and fungal infections, which stimulates the cellular and humoral components of our immune system.
There have been numerous studies demonstrating the ability of shark cartilage to shrink some cancerous tumors, including those unaffected by standard treatments. In order to grow, a tumor must establish its own blood vessel network for nourishment. Like all other living things, if the tumor is denied nourishment, it will die. Studies performed at the Massachussetts Institute for Technology have shown that shark cartilage contains a protein that impedes the formation of blood vessels to tumors.
TAURINE
One of the most abundant amino acids in the body. It is found in the central nervous system, skeletal muscle, and highly concentrated in the brain and heart.
Taurine therapy is used in the treatment of ischemic heart disease. Low Taurine and magnesium levels have been found after heart attacks. Supplements decrease the tendency to develop potentially lethal abnormal arrhythmia after heart attacks.
Another role played by Taurine is maintaining the correct composition of bile and solubility of cholesterol. It helps stabilize cell membranes and seems to have some antioxidant and detoxifying activity. It also helps the movement of potassium, sodium, calcium and magnesium in and out of cells, which helps generate nerve impulses. Taurine is necessary for chemical reactions that produce normal vision. Deficiencies are associated with retinal degeneration and age-related cataracts.
(Feline formula only; canines produce their own Taurine.)
VITAMIN A
See Beta-Carotene.
VITAMIN B COMPLEX
Necessary for carbohydrate, fat, and protein metabolism. Helps the functioning of the nervous system; maintains muscle tone in the gastrointestinal tract; maintains the health of skin, coat, eyes, mouth and liver. Contains folic acid.
VITAMIN B1 (THIAMINE)
Essential for normal functioning of the heart, nerves, muscles, skin and digestive system. Necessary for carbohydrate metabolism.
VITAMIN B2 (RIBOFLAVIN)
Necessary for carbohydrate-fat-protein metabolism, and antibody and red blood cell formation. Good for healthy eyes, skin, and coat.
VITAMIN B3 (NIACIN)
Promotes growth, proper functioning of the nervous system, maintenance of healthy skin, tongue, digestive system, and carbohydrate-fat-protein metabolism.
VITAMIN B5 (PANTOTHENIC ACID)
Assists in the release of energy from carbohydrates, fats, and proteins. Aids in the utilization of some vitamins, stimulates growth, and aids in the formation of antibodies.
VITAMIN B6 (PYRIDOXINE)
Necessary for carbohydrate-fat-protein metabolism, antibody and red blood cell formation, and aids in digestion. B6 also helps maintain balance of sodium and phosphorus.
VITAMIN B12
Essential for normal formation of red blood cells, carbohydrate-fat-protein metabolism, and good appetite. B12 maintains fertility, promotes normal growth and development, and prevents nerve damage by maintaining the fatty sheaths that protect nerve endings.
VITAMIN C (ESTER C™)
A powerful antioxidant that also protects other antioxidants such as Vitamin E. The cells of the brain and spinal cord, which frequently incur free radical damage, can be protected by significant amounts of Vitamin C. In addition to its role as an antioxidant, Vitamin C also increases the synthesis of Interferon, a natural anti-viral substance produced by the body, and stimulates the activity of certain key immune cells. Vitamin C is a key factor in many immune functions, including white blood cell function and Interferon levels. Due to its antioxidant properties, it combats the effects of free radicals while lowering the risk of cataracts and promoting cell growth and tissue repair.
VITAMIN E
An essential fat-soluble vitamin that includes eight naturally occurring compounds, and each of these compounds exhibit different biological activities. The most widely accepted biological function of Vitamin E is related to its antioxidant activities. Vitamin E is the most effective chain breaking lipid-soluble antioxidant in the biological membrane. It contributes to membrane activity, protecting critical cellular structures against damage from oxygen free radicals.
Deficiencies in Vitamin E may lead to reproductive failure, nutritional “muscular dystrophy,” hemolytic anemia, and neurological and immunological abnormalities.
WHEY PROTEIN
The importance of protein in any carnivore’s diet cannot be understated, for it is critical in building and maintaining muscle mass and other necessary metabolic functions. Protein deficiencies can lead to retarded skeletal and muscle growth and a weakened immune system, which causes susceptibility to infections and degenerative diseases. (Feline formula)
ZINC
Zinc is a component of almost one hundred enzymes involved in metabolic processes, most of which work with the red blood cells to move carbon dioxide from the tissue to the lungs. Zinc, functioning as an important antioxidant, promotes normal growth and development, aids in wound-healing, enhances cell division, repair and growth, and maintains normal levels of Vitamin A in the blood. It also helps to synthesize DNA and RNA. Zinc deficiencies have been linked to prostate hypertrophy, cancer, slow recovery from head injuries, diabetes, arthritis, and reduced immune system responses.
If you need more information about the great vitamins, you can call Nuvet labs at 1-800-474-7044 code # is 99903.
"Most Popular Greyhound Health Myths"
Older greyhounds need low protein "senior" diets.
- With greyhounds, we're usually trying to keep weight on the oldsters, not off them.
- Low protein diets may cause muscle wasting and weight loss.
Greyhounds with high creatinines are going into kidney failure and need low protein "kidney" diets.
- Increased creatinine does not equal kidney disease if the BUN and urine concentration are normal.
- A 2000 Auburn study found that greyhound creatinines normally run up to 1.6X "other dog" creatinine.
Greyhounds with diarrhea should be switched to high fiber food (i.e. W/D).
- This approach often backfires with greyhounds, who do better on meat based diets.
- Grain based diets or the simple switch from racing diets to kibble are often the cause of diarrhea.
BARF (Bones And Raw Food) diet is dangerous, not adequate, etc.
- If you're willing to do the research and "cooking," BARF is superior nutrition.
- Other benefits - clean teeth, firm stools, may help with allergies.
Alabama Rot only happens to track greyhounds from eating the raw 4D meat.
- The strain of e. coli that causes Alabama Rot is found in everything from apples to alfalfa sprouts.
Feed several small meals daily / feed from raised feeders / make him eat slow / to prevent bloat.
- Bloat is mostly genetic and much more common in show (AKC) greyhound lines.
- Racers gobble one meal daily from a bowl on the floor and rarely bloat.
Leave him in the hospital until he eats.
- Greyhounds are sensitive dogs.
- Unless they're doing something for him there that you can't do at home, he'll likely eat better at home where he's happy and you can bribe him with tempting cookery.
- Take him in for daily rechecks if needed.
The fecal is negative - he doesn't have worms.
- Fecals are often negative, especially for whipworms.
- If a greyhound has had diarrhea ever since he came off the track, de-worm with Panacur before doing further diagnostics. Don't have the $1,000 case of whipworms.
Greyhounds get so many vaccinations at the track that adoption groups should not revaccinate.
- It's hard to count on vaccines that were supposedly given - requirements vary tremendously from state to state.
- I prefer 2 consecutive years of "known shots," then go to every 3 years if that is your preference.
Dogs need booster vaccines every year.
- Many veterinarians and a majority of veterinary schools have safely gone to every 3 year vaccinations.
Yearly dentals are the best way to keep your greyhound's teeth healthy.
- Fragaria and occasional brushing are the best way to keep your Greyhound's Teeth Healthy
- BARF, chewies, turkey necks - all is preferable to knocking off tartar once yearly while the dog spends the other 9-10 months with dental disease.
- Dentals should be done when needed, but should not be the mainstay of dental care.
Do all you can to save bad teeth - you don't want to lose them.
- Bad teeth hurt - get them out of there!
- Bad teeth form a nidus for infection which can damage kidneys and heart valves.
- Dogs with bad teeth often feel like new dogs once they're extracted.
His heart is enlarged.
- The greyhound heart is normally much bigger than the heart of other dogs.
- There is a huge left ventricular hypertrophy (thickening of wall) - same with marathon runners.
- An ultrasound can differentiate normal from diseased if in doubt.
His heart rate is abnormally slow.
- The greyhound's heart rate is slower than other dogs - again, due to athleticism.
- 60-90 is normal at rest, it may be faster if excited (like at the vet's office).
His blood pressure is high.
- Greyhounds often run blood pressures on the high end of normal (160,170,180).
- They can be higher if excited - again, an important consideration at the vet's office.
He needs a complete cardiac workup for this heart murmur.
- Low grade murmurs (I & II) are common in greyhounds - they are almost always benign.
- Take a chest x-ray if concerned (where you will see a "big heart!").
Your greyhound has polycythemia.
- Greyhounds have a higher HCT or PCV than other dogs, normally in the 50's - 60's.
- HCT or PCV can easily go into the 70's if they're dehydrated.
- Actual polycythemia vera is a very rare disease.
Her platelets are abnormally low.
- Greyhounds can normally run low platelets - all the way down to 80,000 - 110,000.
- Ehrlichia can lower platelets (also lowers WBC and HCT/PCV) - titer if in doubt.
We need a bone marrow biopsy to see if this low WBC is cancer.
- Greyhounds normally run lower WBCs (3,000 - 10,000) than other dogs (7,500 - 15,000).
- An Auburn study of 50 retired racers (March 2000 Compendium) found a range of 1,800-14,600.
He can't have a TBD (tick borne disease), we don't have those around here.
-Greyhounds have a disproportionate incidence of TBDs due to their years on dog farms and in racing kennels, sharing ticks with greyhounds from all over the country.
-Ehrlichia can take 5-7 years following a tick bite to show symptoms.
That ehrlichia titer is too low to treat.
- Treat any ehrlichia titer - the severity of signs does not always correlate with titer.
- The alternative is waiting for a bleedout - there is too much to lose.
- Veterinarians working with adopted greyhounds should maintain a high index of suspicion for ehrlichia.
Imizol is dangerous.
- Imizol is safe but not familiar to many veterinarians.
- Imizol is labeled to kill babesia but also kills ehrlichia.
A low T4 means she needs to be on thyroid supplement.
- Greyhounds normally run lower T4s than other breeds (about half is a good rule of thumb).
- They should not be on supplement unless there are clinical signs - too many greyhounds are needlessly on lifelong supplement.
- Use half of the normal dog dose.
- Sick dogs commonly have low T4s ("sick euthyroid") - the dog is not hypothyroid.
Bald butts are because they're hypothyroid.
- The cause of bald thigh syndrome is unknown.
- Bald thighs are seen with both low and high thyroid levels.
Bald butts are from laying in crates at the track.
- Greyhounds who have never been crated or to the track have bald butts.
He has a toenail fungus.
- SLO (symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy) aka "pemphigus" is the autoimmune condition that causes greyhounds to lose multiple nails.
- Treat as directed in Care of the Racing Greyhound.
This female is the first hermaphrodite I've ever seen! / This female has cancer.
- That red "button" at the vulva is clitoral hypertrophy from testosterone given at the track to keep females out of heat
Skin hemangiosarcomas in greyhounds are highly malignant.
- Skin hemangiosarcomas in "glabrous" (ventrally "nude" breeds such as greyhounds and Italian greyhounds) are solar induced and have a lower potential for metastasis.
I don't want to amputate (or euthanize) for bone cancer. I'll just make him comfortable for as long as possible (or . . . amputation is not the end of the world).
- Bone cancer is a constant, throbbing pain - the most intractable pain in veterinary medicine.
- The pain is not well controlled with meds - if it was, veterinarians wouldn't recommend amputation.
- Amputation is done simply to get the dog out of pain, it will not increase survival time.
- Only adding chemo will make him live longer.
- If not amputated, be generous with pain meds and be ready to euthanize.
I don't want to give Rimadyl, Deramaxx, etc. for bone cancer - it might damage his liver.
- Don't become hung up on the possibility of side effects - bone cancer does not have a long term. Give what it takes to keep him from hurting.
- Combine meds (NSAIDs, narcotics, Ultram, Fosamax, etc.)
She's not in pain - she just limps, has never cried out.
- If she does not put the foot down, it hurts!
- Poor appetite, panting, shaking, can't get comfortable, stops participating, and mostly, "that look in her eye" - all are signs of pain.
- Pathologic fractures (the bone breaks at the weak spot) are excruciatingly painful - euthanize before this can happen.
Dogs can't take Tylenol.
-Tylenol /codeine is one of the most common pain meds given to bone cancer/amputation patients.
That hind end weakness is probably hip dysplasia.
- Hip dysplasia is rare in greyhounds.
- Hind end problems are most likely lumbosacral stenosis in older greyhounds.
We sent the x-rays to a radiologist and he can't find a reason why she's limping either.
- Many things that cause limping aren't seen on x-rays (soft tissue, neuro, corns).
- A good orthopedic exam is key - an orthopedic surgeon is a good bet for finding obscure lamenesses.
"Greyhound Bloodwork"
Greyhound bloodwork has enough differences from "other dog" bloodwork to sometimes make it deceivingly "normal" or "abnormal" if one isn't familiar with these differences. The salient differences are discussed below.
CBC = Complete Blood Count
RBC = Red Blood Cells
Hgb = Hemoglobin
PCV / HCT = Packed Cell Volume / Hematocrit
WBC = White Blood Cells
Platelets
| NORMAL VALUES FOR: |
| | Greyhounds | Other Dogs |
| RBC: | 7.4 - 9.0 | 5.5 - 8.5 |
| Hgb: | 19.0 - 21.5 | 12.0 - 18.0 |
| PCV: | 55 - 65 | 37 - 55 |
Greyhounds have significantly more red blood cells than other breeds. This elevates parameters for RBC, hemoglobin, and PCV / HCT, and is the reason greyhounds are so desirable as blood donors. Most veterinarians are aware of this difference. Never accept a diagnosis of polycythemia - a once-in-a-lifetime-rare diagnosis of pathologic red cell overproduction - in a greyhound.
Conversely, never interpret a greyhound PCV in the 30's - low 40's as being normal just because it is for other dogs. A greyhound with a PCV in the 30's - low 40's is an anemic greyhound. Here in Arizona, a greyhound PCV less than 50 is a red flag to check for Ehrlichia.
WBC
Greyhound: 3.5 - 6.5
Other dog: 6.0 - 17.0
Other greyhound CBC changes are less well known. The greyhound's normally low WBC has caused more than one healthy greyhound to undergo a bone marrow biopsy in search of "cancer" or some other cause of the "low WBC."
Platelets
Greyhound: 80,000 - 200,000
Other dog: 150,000 - 400,000
Likewise, greyhound platelet numbers are lower on average than other breeds, which might be mistakenly interpreted as a problem. It is thought that greyhound WBCs, platelets, and total protein may be lower to physiologically "make room" in the bloodstream for the increased red cell load.
Confounding these normally low WBC and platelet numbers is the fact that Ehrlichia, a common blood parasite of greyhounds, can lower WBC and platelet counts. So if there is any doubt as to whether the WBC / platelet counts are normal, an Ehrlichia titer is always in order. The other classic changes with Ehrlichia are lowered PCV and elevated globulin and total protein. But bear in mind that every greyhound will not have every change, and Ehrlichia greyhounds can have normal CBCs.
Chem Panel
T.P. = Total Protein
Globulin
Creatinine
T4
NORMAL VALUES FOR:
|
| T.P. | Globulin |
| Greyhound:4.5 - 6.2 | Greyhound: 2.1 - 3.2 |
| Other dog:5.4 - 7.8 | Other dog: 2.8 - 4.2 |
Greyhound total proteins tend to run on the low end of normal - T.P.s in the 5.0's and 6.0's are the norm. While the albumin fraction of T.P. is the same as other dogs, the globulin component is lower.
Creatinine
Greyhounds: .8 - 1.6
Other dogs: .0 - 1.0
Greyhound creatinines run higher than other breeds as a function of their large lean muscle mass. A study at the Auburn University College of Veterinary Medicine found that 80% of retired greyhounds they sampled had creatinine values up to 1.6 times as high as the top of the standard reference range for "other dogs." As a lone finding, an "elevated creatinine" is not indicative of impending kidney failure. If the BUN and urinalysis are normal, so is the "elevated" creatinine.
T4
Greyhounds: .5 - 3.6 (mean 1.47+/- .63)
Other dogs: 1.52 - 3.60
These figures are from a University of Florida study of thyroid function in 221 greyhounds - 97 racers, 99 broods, and 25 studs - so it included both racers and "retired." While greyhound thyroid levels are a whole chapter unto themselves, a good rule of thumb is that greyhound T4s run about half that of other breeds.
Urin |
